Method of treating hair

ABSTRACT

A method of styling hair comprising the step of applying to the hair a composition comprising an oligosaccharide comprising mannitol.

The invention relates to a hair styling compositions and a method ofstyling. The invention is particularly advantageous in relation to hairstraightening.

The current hair market has a wide range of styling products such ashairsprays, mousses, gels, lotions and waxes. The active materials inthese compositions are generally film forming agents, resins, gums,and/or adhesive polymers.

The styling market can be classified in various sub-sets based on thedesired styling effect; one such sub-set is products for straighteningthe hair.

A problem with straightened hair is that once the straightening processhas taken place it tends to increase in volume and appear fluffy, thisis especially troublesome in humid conditions.

Sugars and sugar derivatives are one class of the countless number ofcompounds that have been added to hair care compositions.

WO2006/061678 discloses enhanced moisturisation from formulationscomprising saccharose substitutes.

WO2004/037217 describes heat activated durable styling compositionscomprising saccharides and film forming agents.

Clearly, however, not all sugars are the same and not all sugars impartthe same properties when applied to a keratinous fibre.

The present invention has now found that compositions containingspecific oligosaccharides can be used to straighten the hair, and tomaintain this straight style in humid conditions.

The present invention relates to a method of styling hair comprising thestep of applying to the hair a composition comprising an oligosaccharidecomprising mannitol.

The invention further relates to the use of oligosaccharide comprisingmannitol to style and/or straighten hair.

Compositions of the invention comprise an oligosaccharide comprisingmannitol and/or sorbitol, preferably the oligosaccharide is adisaccharide, most preferably isomalt. Isomalt is a combination of1-O-α-D-glucopyranosido-D-mannitol and6-O-α-D-glucopyranosido-D-sorbitol.

The sugar can be either reducing or non-reducing sugars, howeverreducing sugars are preferred.

The level of disaccharides present in the total formulation is from 0.05wt % to 49 wt %, more preferably from 0.2 wt % to 5 wt %, mostpreferably from 0.5 wt % to 3 wt %.

In many aspects of this invention it is highly desirable if thecomposition comprises a styling aid.

Particularly useful as styling aids with this invention are hair stylingpolymers. Hair styling polymers are well known articles of commerce andmany such polymers are available commercially which contain moietieswhich render the polymers cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic innature. The polymers may be synthetic or naturally derived.

Styling aids such as vinylic polymer are preferred, in particular blockcopolymers.

The amount of the hair styling polymer may range from 0.1 to 10%,preferably 0.5 to 8%, more preferably 0.75 to 6% by weight based ontotal weight of the composition.

Examples of anionic hair styling polymers are:

copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid;

terpolymers of vinyl acetate, crotonic acid and a vinyl ester of analpha-branched saturated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid such as vinylneodecanoate;

copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride (molar ratio about1:1) wherein such copolymers are 50% esterified with a saturated alcoholcontaining from 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol or butanol;

acrylic copolymers containing acrylic acid or methacrylic acid as theanionic radical-containing moiety with other monomers such as: esters ofacrylic or methacrylic acid with one or more saturated alcohols havingfrom 1 to 22 carbon atoms (such as methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate,ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl acrylate, t-butyl acrylate, t-butylmethacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl acrylate, n-octyl acrylate,lauryl methacrylate and behenyl acrylate); glycols having from 1 to 6carbon atoms (such as hydroxypropyl methacrylate and hydroxyethylacrylate); styrene; vinyl caprolactam; vinyl acetate; acrylamide; alkylacrylamides and methacrylamides having 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkylgroup (such as methacrylamide, t-butyl acrylamide and n-octylacrylamide); and other compatible unsaturated monomers.

The polymer may also contain grafted silicone, such aspolydimethylsiloxane.

Specific examples of suitable anionic hair styling polymers are:

RESYNâ 28-2930 available from National Starch (vinyl acetate/crotonicacid/vinyl neodecanoate copolymer);

ULTRAHOLDâ 8 available from BASF (CTFA designation Acrylates/acrylamidecopolymer);

the GANTREZâES series available from ISP corporation (esterifiedcopolymers of methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride).

Other suitable anionic hair styling polymers include carboxylatedpolyurethanes. Carboxylated polyurethane resins are linear,hydroxyl-terminated copolymers having pendant carboxyl groups. They maybe ethoxylated and/or propoxylated at least at one terminal end. Thecarboxyl group can be a carboxylic acid group or an ester group, whereinthe alkyl moiety of the ester group contains one to three carbon atoms.The carboxylated polyurethane resin can also be a copolymer ofpolyvinylpyrrolidone and a polyurethane, having a CTFA designationPVP/polycarbamyl polyglycol ester. Suitable carboxylated polyurethaneresins are disclosed in EP-A-0619111 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,000,955. Othersuitable hydrophilic polyurethanes are disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos.3,822,238; 4,156,066; 4,156,067; 4,255,550; and 4,743,673.

Amphoteric hair styling polymers which can contain cationic groupsderived from monomers such as t-butyl aminoethyl methacrylate as well ascarboxyl groups derived from monomers such as acrylic acid ormethacrylic acid can also be used in the present invention. One specificexample of an amphoteric hair styling polymer is Amphomerâ(Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer) soldby the National Starch and Chemical Corporation.

Examples of nonionic hair styling polymers are homopolymers ofN-vinylpyrrolidone and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with compatiblenonionic monomers such as vinyl acetate. Nonionic polymers containingN-vinylpyrrolidone in various weight average molecular weights areavailable commercially from ISP Corporation—specific examples of suchmaterials are homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone having an averagemolecular weight of about 630,000 sold under the name PVP K-90 and arehomopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone having an average molecular weight ofabout 1,000,000 sold under the name of PVP K-120.

Other suitable nonionic hair styling polymers are cross-linked siliconeresins or gums. Specific examples include rigid silicone polymers suchas those described in EP-A-0240350 and cross-linked silicone gums suchas those described in WO 96/31188.

Examples of cationic hair styling polymers are copolymers ofamino-functional acrylate monomers such as lower alkyl aminoalkylacrylate, or methacrylate monomers such as dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate, with compatible monomers such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, alkyl methacrylates (such as methyl methacrylate and ethylmethacrylate) and alkyl acrylates (such as ethyl acrylate and n-butylacrylate).

Specific examples of suitable cationic hair styling polymers are:

copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate,available from ISP Corporation as Copolymer 845, Copolymer 937 andCopolymer 958;

copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminopropylacrylamide ormethacrylamide, available from ISP Corporation as Stylezeâ CC10;

copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate;

copolymers of vinylcaprolactam, N-vinylpyrrolidone anddimethylaminoethylmethacrylate;

Polyquaternium-4 (a copolymer of diallyldimonium chloride andhydroxyethylcellulose);

Polyquaternium-11 (formed by the reaction of diethyl sulphate and acopolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethyl aminoethylmethacrylate),available from ISP as Gafquatâ 734, 755 and 755N, and from BASF asLuviquatâ PQ11;

Polyquaternium-16 (formed from methylvinylimidazolium chloride andvinylpyrrolidone), available from BASF as Luviquatâ FC 370, FC 550, FC905 and HM-552;

Polyquaternium-46 (prepared by the reaction of vinylcaprolactam andvinylpyrrolidone with methylvinylimidazolium methosulphate), availablefrom BASF as LuviquatâHold.

Examples of suitable naturally-derived hair styling polymers includeshellac, alginates, gelatins, pectins, cellulose derivatives andchitosan or salts and derivatives thereof. Commercially availableexamples include Kytamerâ (ex Amerchol) and Amazeâ (ex National Starch).

Also suitable for use as optional components in the compositions of theinvention are the ionic copolymers described in WO 93/03703, thepolysiloxane-grafted polymers disclosed in WO 93/23446, thesilicone-containing polycarboxylic acid copolymers described in WO95/00106 or WO 95/32703, the thermoplastic elastomeric copolymersdescribed in WO 95/01383, WO 95/06078, WO 95/06079 and WO 95/01384, thesilicone grafted adhesive polymers disclosed in WO 95/04518 or WO95/05800, the silicone macro-grafted copolymers taught in WO 96/21417,the silicone macromers of WO 96/32918, the adhesive polymers of WO98/48770 or WO 98/48771 or WO 98/48772 or WO 98/48776, the graftpolymers of WO 98/51261 and the grafted copolymers described in WO98/51755.

With certain of the above-described polymers it may be necessary toneutralise some acidic groups to promote solubility/dispersibility.Examples of suitable neutralising agents include2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol (AMPD); 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol(AEPD); 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (AMP); 2-amino-1-butanol (AB);monoethanolamine (MEA); diethanolamine (DEA); triethanolamine (TEA);monoisopropanolamine (MIPA); diisopropanol-amine (DIPA);triisopropanolamine (TIPA); and dimethyl stearamine (DMS). A long chainamine neutralising agent such as stearamidopropyl dimethylamine orlauramidopropyl dimethylamine may be employed, as is described in U.S.Pat. No. 4,874,604. Also suitable are inorganic neutralisers, examplesof which include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and borax.Mixtures of any of the above neutralising agents may be used. Amounts ofthe neutralising agents will range from about 0.001 to about 10% byweight of the total composition.

Compositions of the present invention are formulated into hair carecompositions, especially products with hair styling claims. Thecompositions are preferably for use in styling human hair and, morepreferably, they are packaged and labeled as such.

It is preferred if the products are left on hair after application andnot immediately washed off (within 10 minutes, preferably 1 hour ofapplication). Such products are commonly called “leave on” products.

Preferred product forms are leave on formulations such as gels, mousses,sprays and aerosols.

Such styling products frequently include a carrier and furtheradditional components. The carriers and additional components requiredto formulate such products vary with product type and can be routinelychosen by one skilled in the art. The following is a description of someof these carriers and additional components.

Hair care compositions of the present invention can comprise a carrier,or a mixture of such carriers, which are suitable for application to thehair. The carriers are present at from about 0.5% to about 99.5%,preferably from about 5.0% to about 99.5%, more preferably from about10.0% to about 98.0%, of the composition. As used herein, the phrase“suitable for application to hair” means that the carrier does notdamage or negatively affect the aesthetics of hair or cause irritationto the underlying skin.

Compositions according to the invention comprise a buffer or pHadjuster. Preferred buffers or pH adjusters include weak acids and basessuch glycine/sodium hydroxide, citric acid, lactic acid, succinic acid,acetic salt and salts thereof. Frequently a mixture of buffering systemis used such as sodium citrate and citric acid.

Carriers suitable for use with hair care compositions of the presentinvention include, for example, those used in the formulation of hairsprays, mousses, tonics, waters, creams gels, shampoos, conditioners,and rinses. The choice of appropriate carrier will depend on theparticular product to be formulated. The carriers used herein caninclude a wide range of components conventionally used in hair carecompositions. The carriers can contain a solvent to dissolve or dispersethe styling compound being used, with water, the C₁-C₆ alcohols, loweralkyl acetate and mixtures thereof being preferred. The carriers canalso contain a wide variety of additional materials such as acetone,hydrocarbons (such as isobutane, hexane, decene), halogenatedhydrocarbons (such as Freons) and volatile silicones such ascyclomethicone.

When the hair care composition is a hair spray, tonic, gel, or moussethe preferred solvents include water, ethanol, volatile siliconederivatives, and mixtures thereof. The solvents used in such mixturesmay be miscible or immiscible with each other. Mousses and aerosol hairsprays can also utilise any of the conventional propellants to deliverthe material as a foam (in the case of a mousse) or as a fine, uniformspray (in the case of an aerosol hair spray).

Examples of suitable propellants include materials such astrichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane,dimethylether, propane, n-butane or isobutane. A tonic or hair sprayproduct having a low viscosity may also utilise an emulsifying agent.Examples of suitable emulsifying agents include nonionic, cationic,anionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof. If such an emulsifying agentis used, it is preferably present at a level of from about 0.01% toabout 7.5% by weight based on total weight of the composition. The levelof propellant can be adjusted as desired but is generally from about 3%to about 30% by weight based on total weight for mousse compositions andfrom about 15% to about 50% by weight based on total weight for aerosolhair spray compositions.

Hair styling creams or gels also typically contain a structurant orthickener, typically in an amount of from 0.01% to 10% by weight.

Suitable spray containers are well known in the art and includeconventional, non-aerosol pump sprays i.e., “atomisers”, aerosolcontainers or cans having propellant, as described above, and also pumpaerosol containers utilising compressed air as the propellant.

The formulation may include conditioning materials such as surfactants,cationic conditioners suitable for hair, quaternary silicone polymers,silicone based conditioners and their emulsions, and amino functionalsilicones and their emulsions.

Further general ingredients suitable for all product forms include,sun-screening agents, anti-dandruff actives, carboxylic acid polymerthickeners for hair shampoo and conditioner compositions and emulsifiersfor emulsifying the various carrier components of the compositions ofthe invention.

The compositions of the present invention may also contain adjunctssuitable for hair care. Generally such ingredients are includedindividually at a level of up to 2, preferably up to 1 wt % of the totalcomposition. Suitable hair care adjuncts, include amino acids, sugarsand ceramides. The method of the invention comprises applyingcompositions of the invention followed by a heating step. The hairshould be heated to a temperature above 100° C., preferably above 150°C., more preferably above 180° C.

The following non-limiting Examples further illustrate the preferredembodiments of the invention. All percentages referred to in theexamples and throughout this specification are by weight based on totalweight unless otherwise indicated.

EXAMPLES

Dark brown European curly hair switches (2 grams and 25 cm) were soakedin 2% sugar solutions solution for 1 hour and styled straight using wetto dry hot irons. After the final iron pass the switches were combed atleast 5 times. This was to reduce or eliminate possible surface effectsof sticky sugars.

The switches were left for 3 hours at 30° C. and 80% relative humidity.

TABLE 1 Final volume (mm{circumflex over ( )}2) Sugar after 3 hrs at 80%rH no sugar - 2% DC1787 emulsion* 11936 2% DC1787 emulsion* 2% GPM 74612% DC1787 emulsion* 2% isomalt 7956Silicone Ex Dow Cowning

GPM is 1-O-α-D-glucopyranosido-D-mannitol.

Table 1 demonstrates that isomalt and one of its components GPM hassignificant straightening compared with silicone emulsion.

Table 2 shows the percentage increase in volume from the initialstraightened volume for Isomalt and two other sugars—sucrose andfructose.

TABLE 2 % increase in area from initial straightened after sugar 1.5 hrsat 80% RH and 30° C. 2% DC1787 emulsion 105 solution - no sugar 2%DC1787 emulsion 80 solution - 2% sucrose 2% DC1787 emulsion 139solution - 2% fructose 2% DC1787 emulsion 56 solution - 2% isomalt

Hair treated with isomalt has a decreased volume compared with hairtreated with fructose or sucrose.

1. A method of straightening hair, which method comprises applying tothe hair a composition consisting of 0.5 to 3 wt % of isomalt and 2% ofcrosslinked polydimethyl siloxane, wherein subsequent to applying to thehair said composition, the hair is heated to a temperature above 100° C.2. A method according to claim 1 in which the hair is heated to atemperature above 150° C.
 3. A method according to claim 1, wherein saidcomposition is a hair spray, tonic, gel or mousse.